Back to the Beginning - a Return to the Bluff: Photo set 1858. Pool 18. South of Keithsburg, IL

 
 

Back in 2015, a colleague came to me with a manila packet. He told me the Army Corps had approached him about taking over a potential floodplain field station site about one and a half hours from campus. He handed me the packet.

I leafed through the printed e-mails and photocopied Army Corps lease agreement documents. I lingered on a map of the site. It could be perfect. It lay just west of Big River State Forest. There was a shed and parking on a high bluff. A structure lay at the foot of the bluff and beyond was a broad floodplain forest.

Then I saw the photo. “Where did this come from?” I asked. He thought that they had historic photos of all their properties along the river.

“When are we going?” I asked.

A week later we turned down a dirt road and on to a concrete pad. I brought along a camera and the photo. It wasn’t difficult to find the vantage point and I took Two Mississippi’s first shot.

Two Mississippi really began on that bluff. That winter I explored Pool 18, but I never went back to that bluff. I was waiting for the perfect day - when snow lightly covered the ground and it wasn’t cold enough to freeze my lenses.

 

It was 27 degrees when I arrived at Big River State Park. I pulled down a dirt road and parked under a cedar tree. South of the clearing lay row after row of red and white pine trees - a legacy of late Progressive Era soil conservation efforts aimed at converting sandy and easily erodible hillsides to pine plantations. Frozen prickly pear cactus poked through the crusty snow. It felt good to be back under pines, even if they were evenly spaced and ordered like a mono crop farm field; cold and snow and pine needles stir my western memory.

Bluff topography like this makes access to the floodplain difficult. Much of the upper bluff is private property. I am sometimes leery about hiking down long private driveways around here. And I’m always happy to see the public land boundary line.

Beneath the bluff, the floodplain is dissected with numerous sloughs and waterbodies. The sun was shining - something I will never complain about. The sun melts the edges of the slough ice. Crossing the ice is a nervous job and I take small steps always listening for those deep tell-tale cracks.

It seems like a mostly healthy floodplain. On the bluffs, where fire and flood management has altered the disturbance regime, invasive multi-fora rose bushes make movement thorny. Below the bluffs, the frequent floods keep the understory open. Invasives haven’t had much chance to root. Neither have young oaks and walnuts either unfortunately. But for now at least the floodplain feels full of life. Raccoon, beaver, squirrel, fox, deer, and coyote tracks were clear. Eagles nested along the slough banks. I even flushed an owl.

Take-aways:

Transformed Human Landscape: Ghosts on the Landscape: I parked in a clearing below a steep rise topped by pine and cedar. At the west end, dug into the bluff and hidden under moss and snow was a cold cellar (noted clearly on the plane table map). The cellar and the clearing itself is all that is left of the original Greenlimb farm.

The Greenlimbs (Anna - b. 1877, Oscar - b. 1882, John - b. 1885) immigrated from Sweden in the late 19th century. They raised pigs and probably grew corn east of the bluff line. The historic photo shows a significant farm with barn and outbuildings. At the gate is a man (Oscar perhaps? By the 1930s John was an attorney in Chicago) looking back at the survey crew. Above is the original and current photo pair.

Transformed Ecological Landscape: A Monoculture Canopy: As construction began on the lock and dam structures, the Army Corps turned its gaze on the island willow bars and shoreline mixed-canopy forests. They were a problem. Flood waters had pulled trees down into the channels - into the path of cargo ships. Massive oaks and walnuts could not clog the lock and dam features and the Corps knew that rising water levels would shake more of these giants down as the river settled into its new normal. They had to come down. By 1939, the Army Corps had denuded large portions of the shoreline and island forests. In Pool 18, most of the forest was cleared between Keithsburg and the Mill Creek pumping plant.

Trees quickly grew back. But in many cases, rather than a mixed canopy of nut-bearing hardwoods - oak, walnut, hickory - these new forests were predominantly silver maple. Maple seeds fall in late spring, just as the flood waters usually recede. Their helicopter tails make them buoyant and as the water drops, millions of maple seeds rest on recharged soil and sprout. Millions of maple tree seedlings shade out the occasional oak acorn or walnut pod and within a year a monoculture canopy of silver maple trees emerge. Nut-dependent animals soon leave that area, as do predators who depend on nut-dependent animals. When the leaves turn color it can feel like you’re in a golden fantasy land. In the winter, these monoculture maple forests are often free of sound and any animal signs. Photo 77-1858 is of Willow Bar Island located at the northern boundary of “Parcel No. 3.” In the fall it is all gold.

Transformed Ecological Landscape: Rising Water and Slough Habitat: It makes sense that if you raise water levels on the river, it will also increase the depth of backwater sloughs. Here, where the bluff topography functions as a steep levee, the sloughs are deep and consistent. As the water rose, it took advantage of any landscape depression - a hollow, an old trail or road - to create a slough. The channelized landscape is difficult to cross in all seasons - part of the reason I had taken so long to come back.

These backwater sloughs are habitat areas for bald eagles and this portion of the Upper Mississippi is a critical aerie. I’ve stopped counting the number of eagles I see each trip. I listen for them though. They chirp when I’m near their nests. It’s a sound I’ve taken as a warning - someone is coming. Stay alert. The chirping puts me on notice and I do not want to blunder (again) into an incident where I scare a couple into spreading their massive wings and pointing their talons my way. There was a lot of chirping today.

Repeat Photos Taken 2/6/20: 28